History of Flight

Man's passion to fly must have originated in prehistoric times. The beauty and freedom of soaring birds has always drawn our admiration and envy. The freedom to move in any direction over all obstacles is a capability that all of us would enjoy. Early attempts to defy gravity involved the invention of ingenuous machines, such as ornithopters (Figure 1).

This type of flying machine utilizes the flapping of the wings in order to achieve flight. Needless to say that all attempts to fly using this type of machine failed. The reason for this failure was very simple- the remarkable physiological capabilities of birds can never be matched by human beings because our heart beat rate must go up to 800 heart beats per minute in order to be able to achieve flight.

In the years between 1650 and 1900 there was a second attempt at flying with a less sophisticated but more efficient generation of flying machines, the lighter-than-air craft.
The idea of filling a closed container with a substance that normally rises through the atmosphere originated in the thirteen century. Over a five hundred year span, different substances came to be known as being lighter-than-air. The most common gases proposed were water vapor, helium and hydrogen. The first successful attempts at achieving flight using this type of craft were made by the Montgolfier brothers in France. Their most successful attempt was in 1783 when in a public demonstration, they achieved 6000 ft in a balloon with a diameter of more than 100 ft. With the passage of time, it was soon recognized that balloons although able to achieve flight, were basically handicapped by a total lack of directional control. This problem was solved with the introduction of power plants or engines in elongated shape balloons. This elongated shape helped reduce drag in order to decrease the power size. The most successful builder of this type of lighter-than-air craft was Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin, (Figure 2) whose name is synonymous with large rigid dirigibles. The term "dirigible" really means controllable. In the early 1930's the German Graf Zeppelin machine was able to make a Trans-Atlantic flight to the United States. The large Hindenburg was equally successful until it was destroyed by fire while attempting a landing in 1937 in Lakehurst, New Jersey. Nowadays, the blimp has become ubiquitous, appearing over the skies of ballgames and large outdoor events.
In the early 1900s two American brothers, Orville and Wilbur Wright (Figure 3),from Dayton, Ohio began to experiment with gliders. The gliders were built using the results of experiments conducted by Otto Lilienthal in Europe. Most of these flights turned out to be a failure. The failure of these flights was blamed on the data provided by Lilienthal. So in 1901, they decided to gather their own wing data by conducting systematic experiments on different types of wing configurations, from which came the 1902 Glider, a machine with a tip-to-tip wing measurement of 32 ft and wing width of 5 ft. This was the first aircraft with three-axis control. This means that the aircraft could go up or down, left or right, and could also roll about its longitudinal axis. Filled with confidence, they went back to the place where they had tested their first glider (Kitty Hawk), in North Carolina, a place carefully selected for its high prevailing winds and soft ground for landings. At Kitty Hawk, they performed over 800 flights, the problem of aircraft control and stability had been conquered.
The Wright brothers, now confident about their ability to fly, decided to turn their attention to power. Unable to find an engine manufacturer to meet their specifications of 8 horsepower and engine weight of less than 200 pounds, they decided to design and build their own engine. Aided by their bicycle mechanic Charlie Taylor, they were able to build an engine that produced 12 horsepower. With the engine builder, they then faced the problem of how to build a propeller since very little was known on the subject. Surprisingly, with their previously collected wing data, they were able to build accurately the engine propellers. And in 1903, after redesigning the airframe of their 1902 Glider, the Kitty Hawk Flyer was born. With this aircraft, in December 17, 1903, Orville and Wilbur Wright demonstrated the flight of self powered aircraft*. Human beings had finally really flown.
Following the Wright brothers success, a flurry of aeronautical activity took place basically everywhere in the world. In 1909, Europe also saw its share of aeronautical successes in the work of Santos-Dumont and Louis Bleriot, (Figure. 4) whose monoplane achieved the first flight across the English Channel in 1909.
The most impressive advances in the field of aeronautics, were made during the years of World War I and World War II. During World War I the armies of the world saw the introduction of a new machine that would inflict its destruction from above (the bomber). This particular aircraft was the forerunner of today's passenger aircraft. After all, a bomber is like a passenger aircraft that drops its passenger and his/her luggage in mid air ! The bombers of World War I were very rudimentary. They would carry only a few bombs and they were mostly hand-dropped by the pilot. On the other hand, the bombers of World War II carried hundreds of bombs inside their massive fuselage.

As time went by, the speed of airplanes began to increase. From the famous 12 mph top-speed of the Wright Brothers Kitty Hawk Flyer to the 400+ mph of the famous Army Air Force (later USAF) fighter P-51 Mustang (Figure 5).

Even though the velocity of newer aircraft was increasing, very soon it was realized that an invisible "barrier" was preventing aircraft from surpassing the speed of sound. This barrier was known as the famous "sound barrier". This barrier became the second biggest obstacle since man's first attempt at flying. The barrier took the life of several test pilots as they attempted to break the "sound barrier" in the famous experimental aircraft, such as Bell X-1. In 1947, a young test pilot named Chuck Yeager broke that barrier and exceeded the speed of sound. From that point on a series of experimental supersonic aircraft took to the sky breaking speed record after speed record. In 1962, the North American X-15 (Figure 6) rocket-powered experimental airplane achieved 6.7 times the speed of sound (Mach 6.7) at an altitude of 108 km.
Today we still can see some of the supersonic aircraft that were built in the 1960's; for example - The Anglo-French built Concorde (Figure 7) (cruise speed: Mach 2.0), the Russian TU-144, (cruise speed: Mach 2.2), and the famous American spy plane SR-71 Blackbird (Figure 8) (cruise speed: classified but known to be over Mach 3.0).

How To Desolder


Step 1: Equipment
Desoldering requires two main things: a soldering iron and a device to remove solder. Soldering irons are the heat source used to melt solder. Irons of the 15W to 30W range are good for most electronics/printed circuit board work. Anything higher in wattage and you risk damaging either the component or the board. Note that you should not use so-called soldering guns. These are very high wattage and generate most of their heat by passing an electrical current through a wire. Because of this, the wire carries a stray voltage that could damage circuits and components. The choice of your solder removing device is also important. There are two main ones; vacuum pumps (solder suckers) and solder wick. They both do the same thing, so what you use will depend on your personal opinion or experiences. I suggest keeping both on hand though, as you may find that each works well in different situations. Solder suckers usually look like large syringes. There is a spring loaded plunger, and a button to release it. The plunger is pushed down. When you want to suck up the solder, you position the nozzle over the molten solder and hit the button. The plunger moves up, creating a vacuum and sucking up the solder. Solder wick, on the other hand, has no moving parts. It looks like wick used in oil lamps, except that it is made of copper. To use it, you put the wick over the joint and heat it. One thing to note about solder wick is that it is expensive, and because it is expendable, a solder sucker may be a better choice if you plan to do a lot of desoldering. I personally prefer to use a sucker to remove most of the solder, then finish up with the wick.
Remember that when desoldering, the resin in the solder and the coating on the board may releases fumes. These fumes are harmful to your eyes and lungs. Therefore, always work in a well ventilated area. Hot solder is also dangerous. Be sure not to let it splash around because it will burn you almost instantly. Eye protection is also advised.
Step 2: Surface Preparation
There isn't really too much to worry about when removing solder. Just make sure to get any grease, varnish or glue off the joint before you start heating. If you don't, you will probably foul the tip of your soldering iron pretty quickly.
Step 3: Apply Heat

Lay the iron tip so that it rests against both the component lead and the board. Normally, it takes one or two seconds to heat the component up enough to solder, but larger components and larger soldering pads on the board can increase the time.
Step 4: Remove Solder

Solder Sucker
Push down the plunger so it locks into place. Usually, you will feel or hear a click. If the tool has been used before, a small "plug" of solder may be pushed out of the nozzle. Once the solder sucker is cocked, put the nozzle into the molten solder and press the button. The plunger will pop up quickly take the solder with it. This should remove most, if not all, the solder from the joint. Don't worry if the tip softens a little, but don't melt it. You may need to repeat this step a few times in order to get all the solder.
Solder Wick
You will probably want to heat the wick first. Before applying any heat to the joint, lay the wick over it and put the tip of the iron on the wick. It will take a second or two to heat up, but once it is hot you will feel the wick slide. You should also see the solder flow into it. You probably won't have to repeat this step. Once a section of wick is filled with solder, it is used up and must be replaced. Since the wick comes on a spool, all you need to do is cut off the used sections and take some more off the spool.
Step 5: Clean Up

You may wish to clean the solder pad and surrounding pad to remove any resin and left over solder. There are commercial products available to take off the resin, but 000 steel wool works well of you are careful.
Damaged Solder Pads

Occasionally , you may damage a solder pad in your efforts. Usually, this just involves lifting the pad from the board, but not actually separating the traces. If this is the case, then it should be fine if you just leave it. If this is not the case and you actually break the trace, you will need to use a small piece of wire to connect the pad to where it is supposed to go. Just follow the trace until you find a suitable location for soldering. Usually, this is the next closest solder joint. Then, jumper the wire between the two points.
Tips and Tricks

Desoldering is just like soldering in that it is something that needs to be practiced. These tips should help you become successful quickly.
  1. Use heatsinks. Heatsinks are a must for the leads of sensitive components such as ICs and transistors. If you don't have a clip on heatsink, then a pair of pliers is a good substitute.
  2. Keep the iron tip clean. A clean iron tip means better heat conduction. Use a wet sponge to clean the tip between joints.
  3. Check the pads. Use a continuity tester to check to make sure you did not damage the pad or trace when you removed the solder. If you did, then follow the steps above to fix it.
  4. Use the proper iron. Remember that bigger joints will take longer to heat up with a 30W iron than with a 150W iron. While 30W is good for printed circuit boards and the like, higher wattages are great when desoldering heavy connections, such as those to a chassis.
  5. Use both a solder sucker and solder wick. Use a solder sucker to remove the majority of the solder, then follow up with the wick to finish things up..

How To Solder

Soldering is defined as "the joining of metals by a fusion of alloys which have relatively low melting points". In other words, you use a metal that has a low melting point to adhere the surfaces to be soldered together. Soldering is more like gluing with molten metal than anything else. Soldering is also a must have skill for all sorts of electrical and electronics work. It is also a skill that must be taught correctly and developed with practice.

This document attempts to teach soldering through a few simple steps. Tips and tricks are also provided at the end.

How To Solder
Step 1: Equipment
Soldering requires two main things: a soldering iron and solder. Soldering irons are the heat source used to melt solder. Irons of the 15W to 30W range are good for most electronics/printed circuit board work. Anything higher in wattage and you risk damaging either the component or the board. Note that you should not use so-called soldering guns. These are very high wattage and generate most of their heat by passing an electrical current through a wire. Because of this, the wire carries a stray voltage that could damage circuits and components. The choice of solder is also important. One of the things to remember is to never use acid core solder. Acid core solder will corrode component leads, board traces and form conductive paths between components. The best solder for electronics work is a thin rosin core solder. I prefer a thickness of 0.75mm, but other thicknesses will also work. Just remember not to get anything too thick.
Remember that when soldering, the rosin in the solder releases fumes. These fumes are harmful to your eyes and lungs. Therefore, always work in a well ventilated area. Hot solder is also dangerous. Be sure not to let is splash around because it will burn you almost instantly. Eye protection is also advised.
Step 2: Surface Preparation:
A clean surface is very important if you want a strong, low resistance joint. All surfaces to be soldered should be cleaned with steel wool and some sort of solvent. Laquer thinner works well. Some people like to use sand paper, but I think that it is all too easy to sand right through circuit board traces, so steel wool is my preference. Don't neglect to clean component leads, as they may have a built up of glue from packaging and rust from improper storage.
Step 3: Component Placement
After the component and board have been cleaned, you are ready to place the component on the board. Bend the leads as necessary and insert the component through the proper holes on the board. To hold the part in place while you are soldering, you may want to bend the leads on the bottom of the board at a 45 degree angle. Once you are sure that the component is properly placed, you can more on to the next step.
Step 4: Apply Heat
Apply a very small amount of solder to the tip of the iron. This helps conduct the heat to the component and board, but it is not the solder that will make up the joint. Now you are ready to actually heat the component and board. Lay the iron tip so that it rests against both the component lead and the board. Normally, it takes one or two seconds to heat the component up enough to solder, but larger components and larger soldering pads on the board can increase the time.
Step 5: Apply Solder And Remove Heat
Once the component lead and solder pad has heated up, you are ready to apply solder. Touch the tip of the strand of solder to the component lead and solder pad, but not the tip of the iron. If everything is hot enough, the solder should flow freely around the lead and pad. Once the surface of the pad is completely coated, you can stop adding solder and remove the soldering iron (in that order). Don't move the joint for a few seconds to allow the solder to cool. If you do move the joint, you will get what's called a "cold joint". This will be discussed shortly.
Step 6: Cleanup
After you have made all the solder joints, you may wish to clean with steel wool or solvent to remove all the left over rosin. You may also wish to coat the bottom of the board with laquer. This will prevent oxidation and keep it nice and shiny.
Cold Solder Joints
A cold joint is a joint in which the solder does not make good contact with the component lead or printed circuit board pad. Cold joints occur when the component lead or solder pad moves before the solder is completely cooled. Cold joints make a really bad electrical connection and can prevent your circuit from working.
Cold joints can be recognized by a characteristic grainy, dull gray colour, and can be easily fixed. This is done by first removing the old solder with a desoldering tool or simply by heating it up and flicking it off with the iron. Once the old solder is off, you can resolder the joint, making sure to keep it still as it cools.
Tips and Tricks
Soldering is something that needs to be practiced. These tips should help you become successful so you can stop practicing and get down to some serious building.


  1. Use heatsinks. Heatsinks are a must for the leads of sensitive components such as ICs and transistors. If you don't have a clip on heatsink, then a pair of pliers is a good substitute.

  2. Keep the iron tip clean. A clean iron tip means better heat conduction and a better joint. Use a wet sponge to clean the tip between joints.

  3. Double check joints. It is a good idea to check all solder joints with an ohm meter after they are cooled. If the joint measures any more than a few tenths of an ohm, then it may be a good idea to resolder it.

  4. Use the proper iron. Remember that bigger joints will take longer to heat up with an 30W iron than with a 150W iron. While 30W is good for printed circuit boards and the like, higher wattages are great when soldering to a heavy metal chassis.

  5. Solder small parts first. Solder resistors, jumper leads, diodes and any other small parts before you solder larger parts like capacitors and transistors. This makes assembly much easier.